The Icy Anvil of God

The train chugs along the seemingly endless Trans-Siberian Railroad,* every one of the 54 berths in our wagon occupied. It reeks of sweaty feet, cheap alcohol, and Ramen noodles. The stifling heat and din of humanity keep sending me to the far end of the train for some semblance of fresh air. Everything in me Read More

Stepping Out and Up

We stand atop a hard-pack snowdrift on the shore of the deepest lake in the world. Nestled within Siberia’s mountains, Lake Baikal is a mile deep and contains 20 percent of the world’s fresh water. The sun peeks over the mountains behind us, illuminating a vast expanse of snow and ice. We silently contemplate the Read More