The train chugs along the seemingly endless Trans-Siberian Railroad,* every one of the 54 berths in our wagon occupied. It reeks of sweaty feet, cheap alcohol, and Ramen noodles. The stifling heat and din of humanity keep sending me to the far end of the train for some semblance of fresh air. Everything in me wants out…back to where we came from 15 hours ago.
We’d been traversing frozen Lake Baikal** covering 600 kilometers (373 mi.) in 24 days. Beneath us lay 20 percent of the world’s freshwater, 336 rivers and streams flowing in, and the one great Angara flowing out. Every morning we’d crawled out of our tents, harnessed ourselves to a sled loaded with a month’s worth of provisions, and pushed northward. Surrounded by vast expanses of ice and snow and with massive mountains stretching along the entire western shore, we faced bitter winds, snowstorms, pack ice, exhaustion, cracks wide enough to swallow sleds and men… and ourselves.